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Robert Donovan

Tu defies definition. The second project from Xiao Boa Biscuit partners Joey Ryan, Joshua Walker, and Duolan Li, Tu is serving easily the most creative and avant garde menu in town. For instance, guava, habanero, cheese ice is the first offering and it’s as incredible as the name is befuddling. Imagine a cold, salty, cube of ice? Does that make sense? Does it have to? I suppose that’s the question Chef Walker is toying with. How far can he push diners in his search for new, unique flavors? When it comes to the lamb he plays it safe with harissa and pine nut-topped tartar, but then he goes wild on pastrami served on a sauerkraut scallion pancake. Just when your brain thinks it may have gotten a handle on all the flavors, Walker hits ya with one more wild dish — rose shaved iced. Looking like a cryogenically frozen camellia, this delicate dessert is like a sweet kiss to finish the meal. Oh, and now you can enjoy the inexplicably cool interior of Tu while the sun is shining. Cafe Tu is open Mon.-Sat. from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m with inventive coffee offerings and snacks like cherry pie and bubble waffles from Chloe Davis King. —Kinsey Gidick (Dish, Summer 2018)

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Hours: Serving Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), Late night (Sat. & Sun.)

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