The infectiously upbeat trumpets of mariachi music blasts as you enter the doors of Taco Boy, instantly setting a festive mood. As far as “concept” restaurants go, this place nails it, with its yellow ochre and burnt sienna hued walls hung with painted Oaxacan masks, stripped wooden ceilings, oversized colored Christmas lights, and rusty chandeliers. Even its bathroom walls are lined with vintage Mexican movie posters. None of this eye for detail would matter if the food weren’t as good as it is. Fresh guacamole makes a great start, and taco choices are endless, such as chipotle marinated grilled Mahi Mahi, kimchi beef with sesame seeds and Korean barbecue sauce, or the Al Pastor with thinly shaved spit fire pork and roasted pineapple salsa, all served in your choice of corn or flour tacos, or Bibb lettuce wraps for the virtuous. With taps flowing, margaritas galore, and a boozy, creamy tres leches dessert to finish off your meal, you’ll be bowing reverently to our Lady of Guadalupe as you exit. And now, Taco Boy has expanded to Summerville, which means more margs for everyone. —Allston McCrady (Dish, Summer 2019)

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