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If you follow pitmaster and co-owner Anthony DiBernardo on social media, you’ll see that the man doesn’t sleep. He’s stoking his custom-built smokers at 2 a.m., tirelessly perfecting the art of wood-smoked barbecue, sometimes with his son in tow. The man is clearly passionate about his craft, and the rest of us get to reap the benefits. Pull up a stool at the meat counter at this popular eatery, and DiBernardo himself might break from tending the fires to offer you a taste while you’re waiting for your order, be it tender pulled pork, sausage, turkey, wings, pork belly, or brisket. All come with your choice of four house-made sauces (an amalgam of southern barbecue styles), plus a bonus jalapeño sauce for heat seekers. Sides are plentiful and service swift and friendly. Wash it all down with a sweet tea if you so choose, but the swig list here might tempt you to hang out long after you’ve taken your last bite. The cocktail list incorporate all kinds of creative “swigs,” and the craft beer selections go on for pages. With hard-to-find whiskeys, swanky bourbons, wines, and more, it’s clear this contemporary roadside eatery takes its swig as seriously as its swine. —Allston McCrady (Dish, Summer 2019)

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