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Jonathan Boncek

From its high, flowery paper parasol-covered ceiling to the playfully named dishes coming from the “Ooh-Mami Bar,” there’s an inference that a good time will be had at South Seas Sushi, an expansion of the South Seas Tiki Lounge. Service is friendly and attentive, and I followed my waitress’s enthusiastic endorsement of the chicken yakitori ($10). Here, three chunks of white meat chicken are served on skewers and lightly drizzled with teriyaki sauce. The meat was tender and there’s a subtle grill flavor. The shrimp crackle pop ($10) delivers a dozen tempura-battered shrimp piled around a ramekin of sriracha mayo. This would make an ideal accompaniment to some of the restaurant’s relentlessly creative cocktails, like the Jade Garden ($11) made with tequila, coconut, and matcha green tea powder or the MSG ($11), which offers a fanciful mix of maraschino, sake, and gin, along with smoked mushroom and orange bitters. It’s mixology on overdrive, and the sheer originality is impressive. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Summer 2018)

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Hours: Dinner (Tues.-Sat.)

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