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The chic, beachy spot is set in a prime location on Ocean Boulevard. Papi’s is small, but manages to squish in three seating areas, including rooftop ocean views. The menu is similarly pequeño, with appetizers including chips and salsas, nachos with guac and poblano queso, and Bayou hot tamales. But it’s all about the tacos. A sure thing is the How Ya Durin. Enveloped in a five-inch Mitla corn tortilla, the lightly breaded prawns are accompanied by pickled chayote, crunchy cabbage, and red onions, plus a creamy remoulade. This is the shrimp taco you expect, only a little better. —Vanessa Wolf (Dish, Winter 2019)

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