Critic Critic 
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Re: “Grand Bohemian hotel's Élevé restaurant is hit or miss

There are so many things in this review to harp on, its hard to pick just one. However, my biggest gripe is the discussion of salmon carpaccio. Ms. Wolf seems to be of the opinion that since it didn't contain arugula or parmesan, it was more gravlax than carpaccio. This shows a basic misunderstanding of what defines gravlax and carpaccio.

Gravlax is salt-and-sugar cured salmon. Carpaccio is meat, raw, sliced thin. If it was cured, its gravlax, no matter what condiments. If it was not, it is carpaccio, no matter what condiment.

In the photo, the carpaccio appears to be served with dill and capers. Capers are absolutely a traditional condiment for traditional carpaccio, as well as gravlax. Dill is more attuned with gravlax, yes, but it is also more attuned with salmon. The thing Ms. Wolf doesn't appear to grasp is that traditional carpaccio is, by definition, beef. From its debut in venice in 1963 until cuisine started getting creative in the 80s, carpaccio was beef. As soon as you order a salmon carpaccio, you are necessarily getting something that is a break from tradition. Perhaps the chef thought (correctly, I might add) that raw fish goes with parmesan like ice cream and caviar. At any rate, when what you are getting is a spin on a classic by definition, it is unfair to ding the restaurant for playing fast and loose with the condiments. Im sorry you didn't get cheese with your fish.

When this critic shows this kind of misunderstanding of the basics of culinary theory, she damages her credibility. I walk away from this review with one impression: I don't know whether this restaurant is any good or not, so I will have to go myself. In this respect, the review has failed at its one purpose.

18 of 25 people like this.
Posted by Critic Critic on November 4, 2015 at 9:13 AM
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