Just six months after the ribbon cutting for its new Charleston International Airport location, DeSano Pizza Bakery announced today that its 94 Stuart St. restaurant has closed indefinitely. In a Facebook post, the company writes, “Thank You Charleston for all of your amazing support. As of today 11/7/2017 DeSano Stuart Street location will be closed indefinitely. Please visit our other locations. Thanks again!”
The windowless DeSano Pizza Bakery — a chain with headquarters in Nashville — opened in Charleston in September 2013 to positive reviews. Former City Paper critic Eric Doksa described the Neapolitan pies as “soft, tender, and easy to manipulate and fold. The crust gets spotted with char as the pizzaiola — pizza makers — lift the pies to the top of the oven dome as they finish, creating a nice interplay of smoky bitterness and soft, mild dough. The outer ring of crust was a bit thick on our first visit, but subsequent orders had a thin, charred crust that resembles a well-prepared baked bread.”
But even with all of that allure, the dining room of the cavernous restaurant stayed relatively quiet. On many visits, I was met by an empty building held down by just a cashier and a cook manning the three giant Grande Forni ovens — blessed by Roman priests, naturally.
Owner Scott DeSano could not be reached for comment, but as of last weekend (when I was in the airport) his Charleston International Airport location remains open.