Eat

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

John Lewis' Charleston brisket bunker is now open for business

Happy Meat Day

Posted by Sam Spence on Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 3:14 PM

click to enlarge Lewis Barbecue opened its doors to the public on Tuesday. - SAM SPENCE
  • Sam Spence
  • Lewis Barbecue opened its doors to the public on Tuesday.
The dark times when the City Paper's neighborhood had only one barbecue restaurant are over. Today, Lewis Barbecue swung open its screen doors and pitmaster John Lewis began slicing mighty fine meats at his brand new digs at 464 Nassau St.

Arriving at about 10:45, 15 minutes before the lunch bell, a crowd of about 50 people had gathered before Lewis, GM Ben Garbee (formerly EVO), and bar manager RH Weaver (formerly Husk) opened the garage doors flanking the three-sided screened porch bar. An intrepid team of City Paper staffers waited about 45 minutes as Lewis and his pit crew worked through their very first lunch customers at the long-awaited spot. Be warned, though: By the time we left, wait times reportedly inched toward two hours as the normal human lunch hour approached.
click to enlarge The 'cue queue wraps around a breezy screened porch bar - SAM SPENCE
  • Sam Spence
  • The 'cue queue wraps around a breezy screened porch bar
Quite conveniently, the snaking meat line (henceforth meat snake) wrapped around the bar where Weaver and co. were diligently pouring cool crushed-ice cocktails like rum horchata and salted watermelon agua fresca and local brews like Coast Type 1 pale ale. Grab one while you wait or snag a roaming server who can punch in your order on their little hand-computers.
Once you're at the counter, the game plays out much like at last year's Revelry pop-ups. Brisket, pork, spicy 'Hot Guts' sausage, and ribs are available by the pound or on a bun. Sides available include lemon coleslaw, potato salad, green bean salad, cowboy pintos, and green chile corn pudding. If a boozy lunch isn't in order during your trip, fountain drinks and tea are also available.

Lewis Barbecue will be serving from 11 a.m.—10 p.m., with bar service until 11 pm. Sunday and Tues.-Thurs. and midnight Friday and Saturday. Some parking is available on premises, with additional space at Half Mile North (near Edmund's Oast/Butcher and Bee.)

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