When chef/owner Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill won the Best Chef Southeast in 2008, it marked a shift in the Southern dining world. He didn’t win it with high-falutin’ French-inspired techniques or white tablecloth service but rather by serving classic Southern cooking — including breakfast — in a neighborhood restaurant setting. Stehling has since expanded the building and put a little more emphasis on evening dinner service, but the qualities that made Hominy Grill such a hit remain. That means hearty country breakfasts with pancakes, eggs, and house-made sausage. The “Charleston Nasty” (formerly known as the Big Nasty and renamed after a cease-and-desist letter) still wows the brunch crowds with a massive fried chicken breast and a cascade of sausage gravy. At lunch and dinner, you can make a satisfying meal just from the ever-rotating selection of Southern veggies, but that would mean passing on Stehling’s superior versions of Charleston classics like Country Captain and Shrimp Bog and on the always-novel products of his smoker, too, like barbecued lamb and goat. The tourists still queue up on the weekends for their big Southern brunches, but there’s a reason that so many people are waiting in line. —Robert Moss
Dish (Winter 2014)
Reasonably priced Southern fare featuring generous servings, fresh breads, and good cooking. Try the breakfast sausage. Voted Best Breakfast and Best Shrimp and Grits by CP readers.
Features: Sunday Brunch, Lunch, Saturday Brunch, Dinner, Breakfast, Best of Charleston winner, Top 50, Non-Smoking
Hours: Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner (Mon.-Sat.), and Weekend Brunch