When chef/owner Robert Stehling of Hominy Grill won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Southeast in 2008, it marked a shift in the Southern dining world. He didn’t win it with high-falutin’ French-inspired techniques or white tablecloth service but rather by serving classic Southern cooking — including breakfast — in a neighborhood restaurant setting. Stehling has since expanded the building and put a little more emphasis on evening dinner service, but the qualities that made Hominy Grill such a hit remain. That means hearty country breakfasts with pancakes, eggs, and house-made sausage. The Charleston Nasty is a massive fried chicken breast and a cascade of sausage gravy (go all-in with the addition of bacon), and it wows the brunch crowds. At lunch and dinner, you can make a satisfying meal just from the ever-rotating selection of Southern veggies, but that would mean passing on Stehling’s superior versions of Lowcountry classics like country captain, shrimp bog, and the always-novel products of his smoker, like barbecued lamb and goat. The tourists still queue up on the weekends for their big Southern brunches, but there’s a reason that so many people are waiting in line. —Robert Moss Dish, Summer 2016
Reasonably priced Southern fare featuring generous servings, fresh breads, and good cooking. Try the breakfast sausage. Voted Best Breakfast and Best Shrimp and Grits by CP readers.