When your waiter describes a dish as tactile, just go ahead and ask for extra napkins. Or in the case of The Ordinary’s peel-and-eat shrimp, a towel. When we ordered the dish from the venerable oyster hall this fall, we figured the waiter was using the term “tactile” to describe the act of peeling and eating. But what he really meant was, “Hop in a highchair and put on a bib, extremely tall baby. It’s about to get toddler-level messy up in here.” Our hands were coated, our cheeks glistening, our décolletage a gravy-spattered Jackson Pollack. But it was so damn good, we left grinning.