In a recent New York Times article, Sam Sifton described Clint Sloan as a "sage and elegant sommelier." That he is. His new beard only adds to the sagely aura as he conjures up the perfect wines to pair with Chef Sean Brock's food. It's been a big year for Sloan, who passed the advanced sommelier exam last August. All he has to do now is master that master sommelier's exam. Gulp.