Much has been written about the Folly food renaissance. The wood-fired grill at Surf Bar? Major score. Fine dining at Blu? Fancy pants. Even quality sandwiches at the Drop In Deli or the grub at Taco Boy are a far cry better than the solely fried fare and greasy burgers the island offered for eons. (And hey, there's no shame in scarfing a Bert's Dog, still 75 cents.) But until last year, there was nowhere you could get a good pork belly gumbo or a Korean barbecue kimchi sandwich. Enter the 'Wich Doctor, a tiny nook that serves gourmet food without selling itself like a gourmet bistro. From first glance, the 600-square-foot spot looks like a regular pizza-and-sandwich joint. Talk for a second to the nice couple that owns the place (and operates it without any employees), and you'll immediately realize that this is something special. Every day there's something they're excited about, and it's usually wise to order it. And we've still never seen a line there. Maybe that will change, and we'll regret spoiling this little Folly secret.