What do we want from our Italian food? Well, in the old days we wanted heaping bowls of spaghetti and meatballs. But these days, we're happy eating plates of duck and tagliatelle, grilled beef tenderloin with gorgonzola butter, and asparagus risotto with seared scallops. As places like Al di La teach us, Italian food no longer means just one type of regional cuisine. And for that, we're thankful.