Charleston bars have moved way beyond plain old Buffalo chicken wings. The deep-fried-and-coated-in-hot-sauce treatment has been applied now to everything from shrimp and oysters to ribs, meatballs, and grouper throats. Duck into the Gin Joint for perhaps the oddest Buffalo adaptation of all: fresh duck hearts soaked in hot sauce, breaded, and pan fried, then placed in a circle on a glass plate around a mound of paper-thin sliced celery and radishes with blue cheese over the top. A night of pre-Prohibition drinks without them would be heartless.

