41-A Bogard St. Downtown
Ken Vedrinski doesn't just fix a cheese plate — you know the kind where some chef plops down three or four meager slices on a cold plate and charges you eight bucks for the favor — this man composes cheese plates. He loads them up with slabs of cheese — good cheese, aged cheese, cheese that has been hand-selected by experts like Manoli Davani over at Avondale Wine & Cheese and delivered to Vedrinski's door at the peak of flavor. Then he hooks them up with, well, "treatments" — a melting robiola, just warm, oozing over fresh slices of apple, fruit compotes dashed across the plate, disparate flavors melded together in ways that make you wonder if you can ever eat cheese again without kicking yourself for not just heading uptown and sniffing out Lucca once more.