Friday night, Executive Chef Nate Whiting of Tristan welcomed Andrew Zimmerman, the executive chef of Chicago’s Sepia, for a perfectly paired dinner accompanied by the wines of Washington State’s Hedges Family Estate.
Three of the six courses stood out most for me. Nate Whiting’s opener, a cannoli shell stuffed with king crab and served over a smooth sea urchin panna cotta, posed a sort of mischievous twist: starting off the meal with a dessert-like dish, rich and sweet with subtle vanilla notes. Zimmerman’s second course, glazed veal sweetbreads served over a creamy celery root puree surrounded by crisp, dark crumbles of blood sausage, provided a fittingly savory counterpoint.
Pastry Chef Amanee Neirouz wrapped the evening up on an equally high note with another of her splendid desserts, in this case hunks of chocolate brioche jumbled with white chocolate pudding and accompanied by a tall, thin glass that held a fantastic milkshake laced with Dragon’s Milk Bourbon Barrel Stout.
Christophe Hedges and Boo Walker of Hedge Family Estate provided an impressive selection of wines to go with each of the courses, plus a little comic relief between courses.